Posts Tagged With: Confidence

The Rhythm of Success


A few weeks ago, my husband and I had a rare opportunity to climb without our son tagging along to the gym.  Now that I’ve overcome my fear of belaying my husband (2 twists in the rope helps boost my confidence!), we were looking forward to some focused climbing time.

Only I bombed.  For some unknown reason, my brain was not in the game that day.  I was getting short of breath, failing to execute simple moves, and that compounded my exasperation.  I wondered if it had anything to do with my time off from injuring my shoulder.

As I considered why I was so off, the closest comparison and explanation I could come up with was that my rhythm was off.  When I play piano, I have a certain ritual of arranging the bench, the music, even my hair.  I do it without thinking.  I didn’t even know it existed until my biggest fan (my mom) pointed it out to me.  These simple arrangements allowed my mind to focus, distractions to fade, and I could execute my performance with excellence.

This was not the case for climbing that day.  It went something like this:

Bouldering at the Climbing Gym

“On belay?”

“Belay is on.”

“Climbing.”

“Climb on.”  I climb up two holds.

My wedding ring is still on!  How did I forget to take it off?  I reach with my right hand, move my left foot into position.

It sure is grinding into my finger. Climb a few more feet.

Which of these holds is actually on this route?  There are 5 different colors here!  Move another move up.

I hope I don’t hurt my shoulder.

Not the most helpful, focused internal dialogue.

While I’ve been taught to tie in and go through the climbing commands and checks to ensure safety, I don’t think I’ve yet embraced the process as my mental preparation.

The more I climb the more I believe climbing is 50% mental and 50% physical.  If I don’t have it together in my head, its better to not even get on the wall.

For much of my life, playing piano meant that distractions would fade, music would surround me and for a time I’d be transported elsewhere.  It wasn’t my experience when I first started however.

I hope that as I progress in climbing, that when I hear “climb on”, distractions disappear, my thoughts fade away and I send with confidence.

Until next time, send on.

[Also: I have to apologize publicly to my husband for my last post.  It was never my intention to paint him as someone who is inept.  In fact he is quite the opposite.  He is truly inspiring for all the trials and challenges he perseveres through.  I thought I was being funny in my last post, but I realized later that it could be interpreted as mean spirited or demeaning, and that is certainly not my intent.  My first post on this blog more accurately describes how I view him.]

Categories: Climbing, Insight | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

They Call Me Flapper John or I Can’t Read!


So I think I’m going to adopt a new nickname. I’m also thinking of changing my Twitter handle from @TheBionicHiker to @FlapperJohn.

I went climbing at the St. Paul Vertical Endeavors on Saturday night. Took the whole family but since my little guy was on the tail end of fighting influenza he just sat playing his Leapfrog Leapster and was the most well-behaved he’s ever been in a situation like that.

Side note: My son told me that he doesn’t like rock climbing which is why he doesn’t climb too high. Turns out he’s not a fan of roped climbing but he’s was nearly begging us to boulder. I feel the same way at times.

Back to my story . . .  so we had a great family time. We’re not sure about whether we want to get a membership there or keep the fitness membership we already have. We’re doing Pro’s & Con’s; can’t tell you whose leading right now.

To make a long story less long I tore my hands apart. I had a ton of ‘flappers’. If you don’t know what they are, it is when skin is torn from your hand and just flaps in the wind. I tore off calluses and other skin from various parts of my hand. See the picture showing you the ouch zones.

Can You Find the Seven Hidden Flappers in this Picture?

That wasn’t the only problem I had……I really sucked it up tonight. I finished one climb….the whole night. I managed to pull off a 5.7 on an auto-belay and I think I may have only used one foothold that wasn’t marked in the routes color. I was happy because it’s the first route I have ever finished. I tried another and for the life of me I couldn’t figure out how it went. So after getting frustrating with not being able to get more then 10′ off the deck I decided to head upstairs to the easy bouldering cave. I say easy because it’s not super overhanging and I needed a confidence boost. I should have looked elsewhere.

I found a nice V0 (easiest problem in bouldering) and I decided to give it a go. I fell, and I fell hard. I hit the back of my head, knocking off my hat, nearly knocked off my glasses, and almost bit through my tongue. So like any sane climber…..I tried it again, and again, and again. I didn’t finish the problem, but I did improve my falling!

My right hand took the worst of it, 4 flappers to 3.

So a climber came over, having felt so much pity on me and showed me how to climb the problem. I got to the part that kept alluding me, but with this new beta I knew I’d finish, until my shoulder began acting up. Yep, it was a one arm hang from a horn with the feet spread out and then a pull up to a 3-finger pocket. My left foot popped and my right shoulder couldn’t take the stress and off I came. I had tried swinging and mini-dynos all night long and coming within 1 finger of sticking the hold. I would leave not being able to finish it.

I tried twice downstairs on a 5.8+ and a 5.6 and couldn’t pull either off. I was gassed, my body was tired and mentally I was shot. My confidence was crushed even though I know it shouldn’t be. I try really hard and I know my technique leaves MUCH to be desired. It’s difficult when you have a bum shoulder, your calves don’t work, you don’t trust your legs, and your knee begins acting up. I know this is only the sixth time I’ve ever climbed and my stamina is really improving, but I hate excuses I hate blaming failure on a disability or being a novice. I really wanted to stick that problem.

I was really struggling to even see how a route/problem went. I’d get going and wonder “Um . . . ok what the heck am I supposed to do now?” I tried my best to stay on the marked tapes to really see where I was at ability wise. Sometimes I just looked at where the movements were supposed to go and I saw nothing. I hope my climbing eyes develop over time.

I did get one great takeaway from this and it was a list of things to improve upon. I think that no matter what failure shouldn’t go by and be left as simply failure. I would encourage everyone to look at everything you face and pull something out of nothing. Never let a hardship, failure, success, or struggle go by without learning something about yourself. Here is what I learned.

1. Be Patient

I kept trying to fly up the routes. I would half jump to holds and leave myself dangling, especially when I know the problem. Going slow saves energy and allows one time to think.

2. Be Even More Patient

I gotta be patient with my progress and allow myself time to develop and to understand that I’ve got some disadvantages that need to be worked through.

3. Understand Why You’re Doing This

Climbing was a form of exercise and a chance to spend time with the family doing something other than watching movies. I’m not a pro and I shouldn’t try to push myself to prove myself either. I need to stop thinking about what other think of how I climb and just enjoy that I can.

4. Use Your Legs More By Trusting in Them More

I don’t trust my legs to hold me or propel me up a problem or route. I don’t use them as much as I should and I need to. They’re not going to get better if I don’t use them and begin to put some trust in them. Even if that means I don’t get up too high I need to develop as a well-rounded climber, and that means using all my body.

Categories: Climbing, Insight | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

A Matter of Confidence


Have you ever had that voice screaming at you in the back of your mind “You’re just not going to make it”

Mine voice comes from a cartoon character with a grey face, weird hair, and rabbit red eyeballs.

If my eyes were red and my skin grey I'd scream too, not to mention that hair!

Hey everyone gets bored at work sometimes and I never proclaimed myself to be Picasso.

Some people have little voices that whisper to them, mine he is rather manic and likes to spout-off every-once-and-awhile. He’s not the voice of humility where he tries to keep me from being cocky. No he’s the voice of imminent failure determined to keep me under his boot.

I had a great conversation about confidence with a good friend the other day. He was telling me the difference between him and another family member. He said that when he gets into a situation or a game he expects to come out on top, to win, and to him there really isn’t another alternative.

I thought to myself for a second, “Holy buckets. I wonder how that feels?”

I’m the type of person that when faced with a challenge I want to overcome I settle for a mediocre outcome.

“I hope I don’t hurt myself”, “If I make it half way up that’s a moral victory”, “Hey I still have all my body parts, at least 75% of my blood still in my body, and three-out-of-four limbs still work….chalk up a victory for me!”

I think the only thing I haven’t settled for was my wife, she’s way out of my league and I hope she doesn’t ever figure that out!

My wife often gets on me about my self-deprecating humor to which I reply “it works wonders on opposite day.”

So much of our success in life can be derived from the confidence and mental attitude we bring to the table, or the trail, or the crag, or the river, or our computer, desk, child, spouse, yo-yo, or the G.I. Joe with the kung-fu grip. (I am a little unsure about the last few or where I was trying to go with this but please bear with me I promise it’ll get better)

Several years ago I watched the video for The Secret. Now I’m not endorsing it, but the some of the principles I do agree with. The adage goes, ‘If you look good, you feel good’ to which I whole heartily agree but it is only half the battle here. How you feel about how comfortable and stylish your clothes are is very important. Don’t believe me, hike a 14er in Colorado dressed in cotton on a cold and wet day and then come and tell me how much you enjoyed the journey?

How you view your abilities and the complexity of a challenge can often determine how you come out of it in the end. Not because you’ve willed something into place, but you are less likely to quit and more likely to concentrate and give it everything you have. You’re mind is sharper as you are more focused letting to see holds and try movements you may have never thought of, or hike faster and longer because in your mind you know you can finish what you started.

Personally I’m struggling with a matter of confidence myself. Not about climbing (which I am sure will come about when my shoulder heals) but about a very special project that I’ve been mulling in my head and placing down on spreadsheets for the past two months.

‘Will it work?” ‘Why would it work”, “Shouldn’t I be devoting my time toward something else that might be more useful”, “Maybe I should stay in my own lane and comfort zone”

A wise man once told me that “Failure often comes dressed up in wisdom clothing”, he also told me that “My world is framed by the words of my mouth”.

So today I ask you readers, what world is being framed by your words? What matters of confidence are you wrestling with? Can you slay that dragon, or will it eat you alive?

Until next time……Adventure On!

Categories: Backpacking, Climbing, Hiking, Insight, Outdoor Recreation, Skiing | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

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